There are a couple things I would change on these jeans. First off, I think the pockets could be lined a bit more. This is purely my preference based on owning a pair of pants from Raleigh Denim Workshop which are probably 2/3s lined while these Tanuki's are closer to half lined. The function is the same, I just like the feeling of a lined pocket. The second thing I might change is the inseam color. I do not mind the blue but I saw on another edition that they had a grey inseam and I think this might be a little more understated and desirable. These two things are very minor and do not affect my overall contentment with these jeans. ![]() I'm exited to break these in and update with some of the fading. Oni X Tanuki 20 oz Secret Denim Ultra Slim One Wash #OTUS1 ONI X TANUKI UPDATE# Tagged 32 but I'd recommend for someone who usually wears a 30 unless you got some serious twig legs. Purchased brand new from Denimio + hemmed, they were tight as heck on my thighs. Just tried on, then went back into the packaging. My loss, your gain.įabric is definitely Oni's, extremely hairy and should break in nicely. No arcs.Ĭhainstitch hemmed from original length, 4 cm off Blue and red selvedge ID, and co branded.Ģ0 oz but surprisingly feels lighter and rougher than my other 20oz secret denim, almost like a 16-17 oz. Note that these are one wash, minimal to no shrinking is expected but I'd suspect the denim would loosen up a bit after breaking in going by my other oni denims. Price includes shipping from Australia and PayPal fees.Tanuki was one of the first brands to put their trust in us, making it possible to give life to Redcast almost four years ago. We met in person around 2018 and ever since, at each one of our meetings, we have been mulling over the idea of doing something together. We admire Tanuki’s work and love their philosophy and how their mixture of tradition and modernity go hand in hand. Whenever we get together we spend hours and hours talking not just about clothes but also about many other things and we usually agree on everything, so we knew that a collaboration with them would lead to jeans of which both parties would be very proud. Right from the start we liked the idea of doing something that would enhance the name of our shop. Like may of you will know, Redcast is a type of denim with a reddish indigo hue. It is a rather unusual but much appreciated fabric by denim devotees. Many Japanese call Redcast or Red Cast fabrics the “true denim”.Īfter a bit of brainstorming we arrived at the idea of making a fabric with that reddish, almost purple indigo hue in the warp and a very natural wine tone in the weft. We did not want to go as far as an artificial red, so the path to follow was to experiment with natural dyes. Akane (Madder plant) was the favoured candidate from the get-go. Such a natural and beautiful red colour is not obtained with any other plant or sediment furthermore, the Japanese are knowledgeable about this dye like nobody else and have been dyeing with Akane for hundreds of years (since the Edo period). The idea of overdye quickly came into our heads. Producing jeans and then soaking them one by one in Akane in their respective baths, then rinsing and drying them, would involve a lengthy and laborious process but the result would be unbeatable. ![]() ![]() We liked the idea of doing the garment overdye on the jeans instead of on the yarn so that all parts of the jeans would turn red, not only the fabric but also the seams, pockets, selvedge, labels, etc. Doing the overdye with too strong and synthetic a dye would have been too striking, but by doing it with Akane we have obtained a perfect result: a very natural wine-coloured red that is so reminiscent of the great Spanish wines –which we happen to be passionate about– as well as of the country of the rising sun. We have achieved the ideal colour for a fabric that could not be a better representative of our shop’s name and the culture of both countries.Īfter months of much testing to achieve the desired colour and texture after overdyeing, we chose the Tanuki Red Cast fabric. Quite often basic fabrics are used for overdye jeans, but that was not the case here. We started out from one of our favourite fabrics, not only as regards the brand but also all Japanese denim. It is a very special fabric, very hairy, with great texture and slub.
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